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Tuesday, August 7th, 2007

Destination: Harare, Zimbabwe

Harare is the capital of Zimbabwe. It has an estimated population of 1,600,000, with 2,800,000 in its metropolitan area (2006). It is Zimbabwe’s largest city and its administrative, commercial, and communications centre. It is a trade centre for tobacco, maize, cotton, and citrus fruits. Manufactures include textiles, steel, and chemicals, and gold is mined in the area. Harare is situated at an elevation of 4,865 feet (1,483 metres) and has a temperate climate. (”Harare.” Wikipedia, The Free Encyclopedia. 3 Aug 2007, 21:29 UTC. Wikimedia Foundation, Inc. 7 Aug 2007 . )

Its name is a derivative of a Shona tale. A King was seriously ill and his subjects thought that he was not going to ’sleep’ and live another day. In Shona ‘Ha a rare’ literally means He will not sleep. And the place where the sick king lived became to be known as ‘Chikomo che HA A RARE’ meaning the mountain where he won’t sleep.

Harare is home to some two million people, with most in central Harare but some 500,000 in the surrounding districts of Rural Harare, Chintungwiza and Epworth. Once a city of modern buildings, wide thoroughfares, numerous parks and gardens, it is now in increasing disrepair thanks to Zimbabwe’s economic downward spiral.

By Plane

Harare’s airport is the major gateway for flights into the country. Air Zimbabwe also operates a small network of domestic flights. International flights are easily available, with Air Zimbabwe with flights direct to London and Johannesburg. In recent times Air Zimbabwe flights often had to be cancelled due to a lack of spare parts and fuel. Flights are however more frequent now foreign airliners include South African Airways and low-fare Kulula.com, both flying from South Africa’s Johannesburg International Airport.

By Car

A National Road from Johannesburg allows easy access. Buses are easily available ranging from greyhound to the local ones for those saving

Getting Around

Although the best option to get around is by car, it can become difficult, as there are fuel shortages in Zimbabwe.

Since Zimbabwe redistributed farms, there have been limited exports, meaning there is no foreign currency available to import fuel into Zimbabwe. All gas stations in the country have been closed since about 2004, and the only way to buy fuel is on the black market from someone who has brought it in bottles in the back of his or her car from a neighbouring country. Buying and selling fuel is illegal in Zimbabwe, so be discreet. Prices are about 30-40% higher than those in South Africa (where the bulk of smuggled fuel comes from)

Roads: The condition of the roads in Zimbabwe has deteriorated dramatically in recent years since the government has failed to maintain them. Most of the country is now without street lights. The main highways are still in a good state of repair outside of the cities - traffic is so light now that damage from trucks is minimal. You should be OK without a 4×4 unless you head into rural areas and game parks. If you enter from South Africa, be sure that your insurance waiver is valid for travel in Zimbabwe.

Things to see

There is a strong appreciation for the city’s cultural and historical heritage and a number of the older buildings have been preserved. The Mining Pension Fund Building at Central Avenue and Second Street is one example and many more are to be found along Robert Mugabe Road between Second Street and Julius Nyerere Way.

  • The National Gallery houses not only a valuable and interesting national collection but also hosts travelling international exhibitions and has a permanent display of some outstanding Shona soft-stone carvings.
  • The priceless collection of Rhodesiana and Africana in the form of diaries, notebooks and reports of various origins, are housed in the National Archives. Some of the original works of some of the greatest names in African exploration and missionary can be viewed.
  • Other institutions which are well worth visiting include the Queen Victoria Museum and the Queen Victoria National Library, both at the Civic Centre; in Rotten Row.
  • The city was laid out with large open spaces like the 68ha National Botanic Garden with more than 900 species of wild trees and shrubs from all over the country. The Mukuvisi Woodlands is 277 hectares of remarkably preserved natural woodland that stances astride the banks of the small Mukuvisi stream. A variety of bird and of wild animal species such as giraffe, zebra, impala, tsessche, wildebeest, bushbuck, steenbuck, reed buck and eland can be viewed.
  • The Kopje, a granite hill rising above the south-west corner of central Harare, is a great place to go for views of the city.

What to eat

Zimbabwe’s Staple food is Sadza: a thick white porridge (a bit like mashed potato), that’s made from corn meal. It’s eaten at every meal, accompanied by vegetables or meat in some form.

In Harare there are many westernised restaurants serving European or American style food - but far more exciting are the (surprisingly cosmopolitan) outdoor cafes:

  • 40 Cork Road, Avondale, Harare is an outdoor cafe, art gallery, and sculpture garden. Very much the place to be seen.
  • 167 Enterprise Road, Chisipite, Harare - an old house converted into a restaurant with a huge garden with a pool, an art shop, gallery etc…

What to drink

Try Chibuku, a popular local beer. It comes in “scuds” - large 2litre brown plastic containers. The beer is lumpy and opaque beige, but is surprisingly good, and painfully cheap.

Where to stay in Harare

Meikles Hotel - Corner Jaso Moyo - Harare, Zimbabwe The hotel is situated In The City Centre Opposite Africa Unity Square And Was Built In 1915 Showing A Long History Of Experience And Resilience.

Protea Hotel Harare Safari LD - Lake Chivero - Harare, Zimbabwe.  Situated On The Shore Of Lake Chivero, There Are 10 Lodges Built Out Of Rock, With Thatched Roofs. - There Are Also 12 Rooms In 2 Blocks, 6 Of Which Are Designed For Conference Delegates. All Rooms And Lodges Have En Suite Facilities.

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